The legacy of William F. Cody, better known as Buffalo Bill, is remembered in Wyoming through his namesake town of Cody and the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway. This scenic byway leads to Yellowstone National Park's lesser-used east entrance, showcasing some of the region's most spectacular views while walking in the footsteps of pioneers who helped shape America's Wild West.
Cody, the town, is a compelling blend of frontier charm meets modern adventure hub. More than just a gateway, it's a historical treasure trove with attractions like the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, where visitors can immerse themselves in exhibits that tell tales of exploration and Americana. Yet beyond its museums and Western-themed performances lies an active community ready to introduce curious wanderers to untamed wildlife expeditions and outdoor sports. Whether you're stepping back into yesteryear or forging new trails today, Cody combines heritage with wide-open possibilities unlike anywhere else. William F. Cody
He was only 11 when he was forced to start working after his father's death, and by 14, he was a rider for the Pony Express. Cody was a Union soldier during the American Civil War before serving as a civilian scout for the US Army during the Indian Wars. He earned the nickname Buffalo Bill for his talent in slaughtering bison, which he initially hunted to feed Kansas Pacific Railroad workers before eventually hunting them for sport. Cody was obscenely prolific in killing bison, claiming to have shot 4,280 dead in just 18 months.
At 23, his legend as Buffalo Bill began when he gained fame performing in shows about cowboys and frontier life. Cody founded Buffalo Bill's Wild West in 1883, taking his company on tours throughout the United States and Europe. His show ran for thirty years, growing from a small stage to a huge spectacle the size of a small town. He hired real Native warriors to play Native American Indians, and gunslingers and cowboys also joined the show. Later, he included Zulu warriors, Mexican vaqueros, Turks, and other exotic acts. Buffalo Bill's Wild West became the most popular show in America, making him one of the wealthiest and most famous entertainers of the day.
While almost everyone is familiar with Buffalo Bill and his Wild West show, the lesser-known story involves William F. Cody, the savvy businessman whose vision extended far beyond entertainment. As an entrepreneur, he channeled his funds into ventures that profoundly influenced the economic development of Wyoming and the Western regions. His investments included an Arizona mine, hotels in Sheridan and Cody, livestock breeding, ranching, coal and oil ventures, film making, urban development, tourism enterprises, and the publishing industry. These diverse investments not only made him a wealthy man but also contributed to the growth and development of the region.
These initiatives helped stimulate local economies and supported community growth. Through his efforts, Cody encouraged both travel and trade.
William F. Cody's impact on Wyoming lasted long after his show days ended, demonstrating that his legacy was not confined to theatrics but steeped in enduring entrepreneurial spirit. Building the Town
Downtown Cody, Wyoming.
Cody, Wyoming, sits along the Shoshone River within the Bighorn Basin in the northwestern part of the state. Encircled by three mountain ranges:
If you follow the North Fork of the Shoshone River, the east entrance to Yellowstone National Park is 53 miles to the west. Initially closed off to white settlers by treaties with the Native Americans in 1868, this region reopened a decade later after the government removed those restrictions. As a result, it was one of the last settled areas in the contiguous United States. In 1894, the legendary Buffalo Bill Cody traveled to Sheridan, Wyoming. During his visit, his son-in-law, Horace Boal, guided him to the summit of the Bighorn Mountains, offering a view of the Bighorn Basin to the west. Although Cody had previously heard about this area from the Native Americans and others, he had never visited the northern basin. Upon discovering that a group of businessmen from Sheridan were interested in establishing a town there, Buffalo Bill enthusiastically joined their initiative. He appreciated the area's natural beauty, its closeness to Yellowstone—already a tourist destination—the plentiful wildlife for hunting and fishing, and the land's potential for ranching and farming. One of the initial challenges was the need for sufficient water for ranchers and farmers to profit from the dry terrain. The Shoshone River, which the Crow called Stinking Water, demonstrated clear potential for irrigation. In 1895, Cody joined forces with George T. Beck, Nate Salsbury (Cody's Wild West show partner), Horace Alger, George Bleistein, Bronson Rumsey, and Harry Gerrans to establish the Shoshone Land and Irrigation Company. That same year, they established a town site near DeMaris Hot Springs, located two miles west of what is now known as Cody. Beck was dissatisfied with the town's location, since Charles DeMaris owned most of the land and was unwilling to sell. He started exploring other options further east, eventually settling on the site where the town sits today. By autumn 1895, work commenced on the Cody Canal to channel water from the south fork of the Shoshone River northeastward to this new location. By May 1896, Beck and surveyor Charles Hayden had mapped out the new town site. Known to the locals as The Colonel, Cody invested heavily in the establishment and development of the town. Beck, one of its founders, resided there and oversaw its fluctuations. The Chicago, Burlington, and Quincy Railroad showed interest in extending a branch line from Toluca, Montana—situated in the Pryor Mountains to the northeast of Cody along the north-south rail route—to Cody. To secure this expansion, the Shoshone Land and Irrigation Company sold most of the town lots to the railroad company, aligning their interests with Cody's prosperity. Consequently, they removed land from their name. In 1896, an effort to establish a newspaper called the Shoshone Valley News was short-lived. However, in 1899, the Cody Enterprise began its operations and continues to publish today, proudly recognizing Buffalo Bill as its founder. By 1900, Cody's population had grown to just over 300 residents, and in 1901, the town of Cody was incorporated. The rail connection to Cody was inaugurated on November 11, 1901, with the Cody Depot located on the Shoshone's north bank, opposite of town. On November 18, 1902, the Irma Hotel opened its doors. Named after one of Buffalo Bill's daughters, it claimed to be the most modern hotel in the Rocky Mountains. Shortly there after, the U.S. Reclamation Service was established through the Newlands Reclamation Act. This legislation mandated that all revenue generated by the federal government from selling and disposing of public lands in 16 western states be allocated for constructing dams and irrigation systems beyond the financial reach of private enterprises. Consequently, Buffalo Bill's ambition to dam the Shoshone River began to materialize with this act's approval. Following this, the Shoshone River Valley Project commenced, and in 1904, Cody transferred his water rights to the Reclamation Service. A dam site was chosen in Shoshone Canyon, roughly eight miles upstream from the town, and road construction between the city and the dam site started that spring. The resulting reservoir for the dam led to flooding the town of Marquette—situated at the junction of the north and south forks of the Shoshone—necessitating either relocation or abandonment of local ranches and structures there. The construction of the railroad and the influx of federal funds for building the dam spurred growth and prosperity in Cody. In 1909, the Wyoming Legislature established Park County from a portion of Big Horn County, and Cody was designated the county seat. The subsequent year saw elections for county positions, and by 1911, the county was functioning smoothly. Oil was discovered in 1912 in the Oregon Basin to the southeast of Cody, leading to further discoveries in nearby fields. However, once the initial excitement faded, Cody's expansion decelerated somewhat, particularly during World War I. Buffalo Bill Cody passed away on January 10, 1917. Just six weeks later, five notable citizens from the town established the Buffalo Bill Memorial Association. The group was spearheaded by Maggie Simpson, married to Will Simpson, a distinguished lawyer in Cody and the mother of future governor Milward Simpson. They decided to use the $5,000 the Wyoming Legislature had already allocated for a memorial honoring Buffalo Bill. Mary Jester Allen, Buffalo Bill's niece, and Caroline Lockhart, the editor and publisher of the Cody Enterprise, played critical roles in securing Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney—a renowned sculptor from New York—to craft the statue. Whitney selected and purchased land for the statue's location and generously donated it to the association. The statue was unveiled on July 4, 1924; three years later, on this date, the Buffalo Bill Museum opened its doors. 
Buffalo Bill-The Scout by Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney
721 Sheridan Ave, Cody The story behind Whitney's initial attempt at the sculpture is quite fascinating. Her first version was criticized for being too Eastern in style because it featured the wrong type of horse with inappropriate tack and pose. To correct the problem, she had a horse from Buffalo Bill's TE Ranch shipped to New York, and a cowboy from Cody served as the model. Dedicated on July 4, 1924, the statue stands on a large stone base meant to symbolize Cedar Mountain, which is now better known as Spirit Mountain—Buffalo Bill's chosen burial site—an ironic decision since he died while visiting his sister in Denver, Colorado, and was buried on Lookout Mountain against his wishes. Vanderbilt covered most of the estimated $50,000 cost for this memorial; her son Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitney later founded the Whitney Museum of Western Art—one of the five museums within the Buffalo Bill Center of the West. This statue, a significant piece of Western American history, was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974.
Following World War I, the country resumed traveling. Cody experienced renewed growth by attracting Yellowstone tourists to the Buffalo Bill sights in town. Established in 1920 under Lockhart's leadership and still held today, the Cody Stampede, an annual rodeo event, was established, which includes additional celebrations during the Fourth of July weekend. To maintain a Western atmosphere for visitors, the Cody Club—an early version of the local Chamber of Commerce—encouraged residents to wear Western attire.
Beyond tourism, Cody also relies on the oil and gas industry. Numerous oil firms have been active in the region since early discoveries in the Oregon Basin. In 1938, Glenn Nielson relocated his Husky Oil Company headquarters to Cody and constructed a refinery near the railroad depot north of town. The Husky refinery shut down in the mid-1980s. However, Marathon Oil acquired the former Husky headquarters building, and they remain the leading oil company in the area. Today, Cody is home to a little over 10,000 permanent residents. It is a popular destination for vacationers journeying to Yellowstone, aligning with Colonel Cody's original vision of the town as an ideal spot for travelers, hunters, and anglers. Through irrigation, the challenges of the high desert climate have been mitigated, allowing agriculture to flourish. Buffalo Bill's influence remains strong in Cody, evident at the Irma Hotel, the Buffalo Bill Historical Center, and various local businesses that aim to attract visitors. In 1946, in honor of Buffalo Bill's centennial birthday, both the dam and reservoir were renamed after him—a tribute that reflects his enduring legacy. Things to Do in CodyBuffalo Bill Center of the West - 720 Sheridan Ave
Hard, and Fast, All the Way by Peter Fillerup One of the many Buffalo Bill statues in front of the Buffalo Bill Center of the West, vividly captures a young William F. Cody as a daring Pony Express rider.
The Buffalo Bill Center of the West undeniably stands out as the top attraction in Cody. Frequently referred to as the Buffalo Bill Museum, this extraordinary establishment unites five unique museums under one roof.
The Buffalo Bill Museum, a tribute to Buffalo Bill Cody's life and legacy, is just one of the five unique museums that make up the Buffalo Bill Center of the West. The Cody Firearms Museum's extensive collection of iconic Winchesters and Brownings is a must-see for gun enthusiasts. Nature lovers will be captivated by The Draper Natural History Museum's breathtaking exhibits that showcase wildlife and the wonders of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem. Art lovers can indulge in The Whitney Western Art Museum's exquisite paintings of wildlife, Native Americans, and Yellowstone's landscapes. The Plains Indian Museum offers a rich exploration of Plains Indian culture and history, including rare artifacts like the bison hide tepee. Together, these museums provide a comprehensive insight into America's diverse heritage, making them not just attractions, but invaluable educational resources. This place is huge, I recommend allowing at least a day and a half to see it all. Stampede Park Arena - 519 W Yellowstone Ave
Cody's association with rodeo stretches back over a hundred years, originating from Buffalo Bill Cody's Wild West Show. Although the show never officially occurred in Cody, Buffalo Bill understood the public's fascination with the American frontier. He recognized the importance of preserving its traditions before they faded into history. Rodeos and parades became integral to the town's cultural identity.
In 1913, Buffalo Bill staged his final Wild West Show. He organized one last parade and rodeo in Cody for the Prince of Monaco. Following Buffalo Bill's passing, Clarence Williams, inspired by Buffalo Bill's legacy, spearheaded efforts to establish a rodeo in Cody, maintaining the Old West traditions he advocated for and inspiring future generations with his dedication. If you are in Cody for the Fourth of July holiday, do not miss the Cody Stampede Rodeo. Established in 1919, this historic rodeo runs from July 1 to 4. With its roots deep in the American West, this huge annual event features skilled riders from the professional rodeo circuit demonstrating their prowess and bravery by competing in heart-pounding displays such as bull riding, barrel racing, and steer wrestling. Besides the competitive action, the Cody Stampede Rodeo offers plenty of entertainment for all ages. Parades weave through downtown streets with colorful floats and marching bands. Vendors provide delicious food options—from classic BBQ to local culinary delights. The entire town joins in on the celebration of this cherished tradition. Families eagerly participate in pre-rodeo activities like rope trick demonstrations and live music performances. Visitors can immerse themselves in Western heritage through storytelling sessions and art exhibits. The rest of the summer, the town proudly hosts the Cody Nite Rodeo. One of the longest-running nightly rodeos in the world, this rodeo runs from June 1 to August 31. Locals and visitors gather to witness the cowboy and cowgirl competitors showcase their skills every summer evening. The events, filled with thrilling bronc riding, speedy barrel racing, and adrenaline-pumping bull riding, are sure to keep you on the edge of your seat. Attending this iconic rodeo at Cody Stampede Park Arena provides a glimpse into the heart of cowboy culture, making it a must-see Cody experience. The rodeo is not just a sport; it's a celebration of history and heritage deeply embedded in American identity, and it's a chance for everyone to come together and share in the experience. The Irma Hotel - 1192 Sheridan Avenue
The Historic Irma Hotel
Constructed by the legendary Buffalo Bill Cody, and named to honor his beloved youngest daughter, Irma. The hotel was designed to attract visitors to Cody, serving as a hub for tourists en route to Yellowstone, big game hunters, summer vacationers, and entrepreneurs exploring opportunities in ranching, mining, and other industries. Buffalo Bill kept two suites on reserve and maintained an office at the hotel for his personal use.
Its grand opening in 1902 was nothing short of spectacular. Buffalo Bill threw an extravagant celebration that attracted journalists and dignitaries from distant cities like Boston and New York, and The Irma quickly became the bustling epicenter of social life in Cody. However, financial turmoil soon cast shadows over Buffalo Bill's illustrious enterprise. Besieged by creditors' demands, he had no choice but to transfer ownership of the cherished hotel to his estranged wife, Louisa, in 1913. Following Buffalo Bill's death in 1917, foreclosure led to Barney Link acquiring the property. Yet fate intervened when Link's estate returned the hotel to Louisa before year's end, allowing her to retain it until she died in 1925. Subsequent proprietors Henry and Pearl Newell embarked on a journey of expansion, adding an annex around 1930 to cater to the growing influx of automobile-traveling guests. Pearl continued overseeing operations after Henry's passing in 1940 until she died in 1965. Her legacy included bequeathing an invaluable trove of Buffalo Bill memorabilia to the Buffalo Bill Historical Center and ensuring that proceeds from her estate would fund a museum endowment. The Irma Hotel continues to serve as both a hotel and restaurant. Its venerable status as a National Historic Landmark, immortalized by its inclusion on the National Register of Historic Places since 1973, is a testament to its enduring charm and historical significance. Whether or not you choose to stay or eat at The Irma, make sure to check out the hotel's famous cherry wood bar. This bar, a present from Queen Victoria, has been around since the hotel's inception and is one of Cody's most photographed attractions. Old Trail Town - 1831 DeMaris Drive
Wagons parked in the middle of town at this historic Old Trail Town.
Old Trail Town sits on Cody's first town site. It features a meticulously preserved collection of authentic Old West buildings that were collected from Montana and Wyoming. Western historian Bob Edgar and his colleagues carefully dismantled, transported, and reassembled these buildings at Old Trail Town.
The town boasts thousands of historical artifacts and has several graves of notable Old West figures, such as Mountain Man John Johnson—immortalized in the 1972 film Jeremiah Johnson by actor Robert Redford. Additionally, visitors can see the original hideout of outlaws Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, a Wyoming saloon frequented by Cassidy's Hole-in-the-Wall Gang, and the home of Curley—the Crow Indian Army Scout who guided Lt. Col. George A. Custer to the Battle of Little Big Horn in 1876. Old Trail Town is a tribute to the uniquely American legacy known worldwide as the Old West. 
Coffin School is a one-room schoolhouse built in 1884 at the W Bar Ranch along the Wood River. It was named in memory of Alfred Nower, who succumbed to gangrene in this cabin after cutting his leg while chopping logs.
Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic BywayPresident Teddy Roosevelt called the stretch of highway between Cody, Wyoming, and the East Gate of Yellowstone National Park “the 50 most beautiful miles in America.” 
After departing Cody, on the Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway, one of the first glimpses of the Shoshone Canyon reveals the Hayden Arch Bridge in the distance as it spans the Shoshone River.
The distance from Cody to Yellowstone National Park is 52 miles. The Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway is the last 27.5 miles, making it slightly more than half the journey. Most people don't make that distinction since the stunning scenery begins right as you leave Cody and extends all the way to—and beyond—the park's entrance, making any specific demarcation seem trivial. However, the scenic byway lies within the Shoshone National Forest on US Highway 14/16/20, also known as the North Fork Highway, as it follows the North Fork of the Shoshone River through the Absaroka Mountains.
The area is renowned for its rich wildlife, spectacular rock formations, and ample recreational activities. This drive is guaranteed to offer an unforgettable experience. Colter’s Hell
Just north of the highway at Cody's western edge as you leave town, Colter's Hell features fumaroles and hot springs along the Shoshone River. This geothermal zone spans roughly one square mile at the entrance to the Shoshone Canyon.
Named after mountain man John Colter. The area's geothermal activity has diminished since he visited here in 1807-1808 after he left the Lewis and Clark Expedition before its completion. An early account by trapper Joseph Meek in 1830 compared Colter's Hell to Yellowstone’s geyser basin, suggesting that the geysers were still active here when he visited. The geysers are no longer active, but Colter’s Hell features hot springs and steam vents, with some of the hot spring cones rising up to 30 feet along the riverbank. In 1973, Colter's Hell was added to the National Register of Historic Places. Shoshone Canyon
Looking down at the Buffalo Bill power plant just downstream from the picturesque Shoshone Canyon along the Shoshone River.
Shoshone Canyon is an awe-inspiring gorge carved through the mountain by the relentless erosive force of the Shoshone River. Rattlesnake Mountain is located on the canyon's northern side, while Cedar Mountain, also known as Spirit Mountain, is on the southern side.
The mountains are a northwest-oriented uplift in the earth's crust, towering 3,700 feet above the landscape. The mountain's northeast side reveals sedimentary rock layers that dip eastward beneath the plains. These same rock layers, dating from 205 to 570 million years old, arch over the mountain's peak and stand vertically on its southwest side. Two-billion-year-old granite is exposed at Buffalo Bill Dam, located at the canyon's western end. A fault line runs north of the dam next to these steeply tilted rocks. Geologic compressive forces created about 66 million years ago (about the same time dinosaurs went extinct) shaped this area. The current topography of Rattlesnake Mountain and Shoshone Canyon has developed due to erosion over the last three million years. There are two power plants at the base of Cedar Mountain: the Buffalo Bill Power Plant beside the Shoshone River and the Spirit Mountain Power Plant higher up, which is not shown in the photograph. Shoshone Canyon Tunnel
Shoshone Canyon Tunnel
This is the longest tunnel in Wyoming.
In 1957, a contract was granted for constructing the Shoshone Highway Tunnel, a project that would become one of the Wyoming Highway System's most significant and impressive achievements. This tunnel system, stretching approximately 4,000 feet in total, includes two shorter tunnels and a longer tunnel measuring 3,300 feet. At the same time, a bridge was built over the Shoshone River to the east of these tunnels. The workers faced constant danger from falling rocks. They had to carefully plan their schedule to ensure that traffic between Cody and Yellowstone National Park remained uninterrupted. Despite these challenges, work progressed steadily, with workers excavating an average of 27 cubic yards of mostly rock per hour at the tunnel faces and nearly 30 cubic yards per hour on the floors. The construction project garnered as much interest as Shoshone Canyon's natural beauty and Buffalo Bill Dam. Remarkably, only one fatality occurred during the drilling of the pilot bore. However, there were numerous close calls with falling debris. In one incident, a large earth-moving machine fell into the 200-foot-deep Shoshone Reservoir due to hydraulic failure; fortunately, its operator was unharmed, and the machine was retrieved and returned to service. Buffalo Bill Cody Dam & Visitor's Center
Upon exiting the tunnel, a parking lot on the left is for the Buffalo Bill Dam and Visitor's Center.
The Visitor's Center is open daily from May through the end of September. It is free to visit, and during visiting hours, a shuttle makes frequent trips back and forth to the parking lot for those who don't wish to make the walk. 
Buffalo Bill Dam and Visitor Center
The views from the Visitor Center and from atop the dam are breathtaking. It’s pretty thrilling to look straight down from the open walkway stretching across the dam and see the Shoshone River hundreds of feet below.
The Buffalo Bill Dam was built initially for irrigation and flood control. The first power plant was added to the facility in 1919. Be sure to take notice of the old Shoshone Power Plant tucked into the canyon wall far below since she was the first. 
A view of Shoshone Canyon from the Buffalo Bill Dam.
The Visitor Center features educational exhibits highlighting Buffalo Bill's impact on Cody and the Big Horn Basin, historical photos documenting the dam's construction between 1905 and 1910, and information about the power plants' installation. Additionally, it showcases the significance of water in the Big Horn Basin.
Authorized in 1904, this dam was one of the first projects undertaken by the Bureau of Reclamation. Recognized for its historical significance, it was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1971 and designated as a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark in 1973. Buffalo Bill State Park & Reservoir
The Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway skirts the edge of Buffalo Bill State Park and follows the shoreline of the Buffalo Bill Reservoir.
In 1957, Buffalo Bill State Park was created around the Buffalo Bill Reservoir, which was formed by damming the Shoshone River with the Buffalo Bill Dam. The federal government obtained much of the land for the reservoir project from Colonel Cody. In 1993, when the dam's crest was elevated and the reservoir expanded, a significant portion of the parkland was submerged and required redevelopment.
The park is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, offering diverse activities, from camping to hiking, boating, windsurfing, and fishing. It is said to be excellent for trout fishing. It is open year-round for camping and day use, although certain facilities and amenities are shut down during winter. Water and showers are available from May 1 through the end of September, but that is dependent on the weather in early May and later September. The park is open 24 hours a day, with Park office hours from 7 to 7. From October through April, all water is turned off for the winter. The rest of the park is open to camping and day use, except for North Fork Campground and Sheep Mountain Day Use Area. Wapiti Valley
Wapiti Valley
The picturesque Wapiti Valley is named after the Cree Native American word for elk, reflecting the area's deep cultural roots. Visitors are greeted by a spectacular array of volcanic formations that tell stories of Earth's ancient past, creating an awe-inspiring backdrop for exploration and adventure.
The valley is teeming with diverse wildlife, providing an exciting opportunity to witness some of North America's most iconic animals in their natural habitat. Look for grizzly bears, black bears, elk, mule and whitetail deer, buffalo, bighorn sheep, eagles, and peregrine falcons. 
The Absaroka Mountains in Wapiti Valley.
Spanning 9,000 square miles, the Absaroka volcanic field ranks among the largest in the continental United States. Around thirty-five to fifty-five million years ago, eruptions in the Yellowstone area produced 10,000 feet of lava and debris. Subsequent glacial movements shaped this volcanic material into the stunning Absaroka Range. The range's remote sections are only reachable by foot or horseback, posing challenges for study, mapping, and development. Fossils found within these deposits reveal tropical and subtropical plants and animals from that period of eruption. Since the Absaroka Volcanics were active, this region has undergone significant climate changes.
In Wapiti Valley, a Big Boy statue is perched on a pedestal amidst a field, with the stunning Absaroka Mountains providing a breathtaking backdrop along the Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway.
A Big Boy statue stands atop a pedestal in a field on the south side of the road between mile markers 34 and 35.
No one seems to know much about it other than that he appeared in place sometime in the summer of 2013.
Boy name alongside their own, but not Bob's. The first three franchises were named Frisch's Big Boy, Eat'n Park Big Boy, and Shoney's Big Boy.
Its mascot famously represents the chain—a chubby boy with a pompadour hairstyle dressed in red and white checkered overalls, holding up a Big Boy double-decker cheeseburger. This mascot was modeled after Richard Woodruff, a six-year-old from Glendale, California. According to legend, when Woodruff entered the restaurant as Wian was brainstorming names for his new burger creation, Wian greeted him with Hello, Big Boy!—and the name stuck. Due to various restaurant closures or rebranding of former Big Boy restaurants on the West Coast, many statues of this iconic mascot ended up in private hands and are frequently traded on eBay. It’s possible that this particular statue originated from such a transaction
Francis Lee Smith, a Cody native and 1967 University of Montana architecture graduate, embarked on constructing this unique multi-story log house in 1971. He meticulously built it by hand, utilizing unclaimed timber from the 1952 Rattlesnake Mountain wildfire. He selected this hilltop location, believing it to be the geographic heart of Wapiti Valley, and envisioned his creation as an homage to the North Fork Mountains.
The expansive five-story log house is characterized by seemingly random staircases, precarious balconies, and shattered windows. Despite its lack of modern amenities such as electricity, running water, air conditioning, or gas—relying solely on a small wood-burning fireplace for heat—the house was home to Smith, his wife, and their two children. Smith's dedication only grew stronger after his wife divorced him in 1980 due to his obsession with the house's construction. He added more winding rooms with unique features like elk antlers and metal scrap containers. Smith often worked at great heights without safety gear. Tragically, on April 25th, 1992, while working on an upper balcony, a section of timber came loose, causing him to fall about 20 feet, resulting in instant death. His daughter maintained the property for many years until its sale in 2019. Locals have given this solitary and dilapidated structure various names; some call it the Smith Mansion or Pagoda House, while others refer to it less kindly as the Crazy House. Wapiti Ranger Station
In 1903, approximately 30 miles west of Cody, the Wapiti Ranger Station was established as the first federally funded ranger station in the United States. By 1963, it earned a place on the National Register of Historic Places as a National Historic Landmark. Today, this historic site and its auxiliary buildings continue to function as accommodations for Forest Service seasonal workers during summer, as well as storage for pack and saddle stock and various equipment and supplies. Although I haven't been there myself, I believe it's located just behind the Wapiti Wayside.
Absaroka Mountains at the edge of Wapiti Valley.
Shoshone National Forest
The North Fork of the Shoshone River meanders gracefully at the boundary of Shoshone National Forest.
As you journey onward, the valley gradually narrows, and the river re-emerges beside the road. This marks a transition in your adventure as you depart the magnificent Wapiti Valley and enter the Shoshone National Forest. The Buffalo Bill Scenic Byway officially begins at the edge of Shoshone National Forest, stretching 27.5 miles to the Yellowstone National Park entrance. With its breathtaking views, this picturesque route separates two expansive wilderness regions: the Washakie Wilderness on the south and the North Absaroka Wilderness on the north.
Shoshone National Forest, established in 1891, was part of the Yellowstone Timberland Reserve. It is recognized as the first national forest in the United States.
The area boasts a rich cultural history, with archaeological and ethnographic studies revealing that humans have inhabited what is now the Shoshone National Forest for at least 10,000 years. Indian Tribes such as the Arapahoe, Blackfeet, Comanche, Crow, Nez Perce, Northern Cheyenne, and Sioux used this land for cultural traditions and survival. Still, it is named after the Shoshoni Indians who lived there. Notable mountain men like John Colter and Jim Bridger were among its early explorers, and miners were drawn to the area for its riches. Kirwin, a ghost town from an early mining era in Wyoming's history, is a historical snapshot of that vibrant period. Additionally, remnants of tie hack flumes and cabins on the forest's southern edge highlight another chapter when millions of railroad ties were manufactured there. 
Creating the country's inaugural park and timber reserve ignited fierce opposition from local settlers, who were furious that large land areas were no longer accessible for private benefit. They failed to see the potential profits from tourism lodges along the scenic route, which have roots in those early times. However, Buffalo Bill grasped this concept; his foresight over a hundred years ago led to the development of the highway, Buffalo Bill Dam, and Cody. Embrace this land, its myths, and its icons where a glimpse of the Wild West is preserved for posterity.
The Holy City Rock Formation.
The Holy City rock formation is a testament to Earth's ancient past. This natural wonder, reminiscent of the outline of Jerusalem, was shaped by fiery volcanic activity and glacial forces long before humans began recording time. Over 50 million years ago, a series of volcanic eruptions occurred, each one rivaling the intensity of the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens. These eruptions deposited a dense mixture of rock and ash, known as Breccia, across the landscape. As this material gradually cooled and solidified, streams and gullies began their slow work of erosion, carving intricate shapes into the soft breccia. Winds carried fine grains of sand and dust that further wore down these formations over time. Meanwhile, smaller streams expanded gullies by cutting deeper channels through the breccia as they flowed towards larger bodies of water.
The Holy City rock formation from the handicap accessible walkway along the river's edge.
Pahaska Tepee
Historic Pahaska Tepee
Buffalo Bill Cody's original hunting lodge and hotel, Pahaska Tepee, is located on the grounds of the Pahaska Tepee Resort, a mere two miles from Yellowstone National Park.
This rustic retreat was personally marked for construction by Buffalo Bill himself in 1901. However, work on it likely didn't begin until after the completion of the government road from Cody to Yellowstone's East Gate in the summer of 1903. During this time, logs were felled and notched, and foundations were laid as part of Cody’s grand vision. Simultaneously, another one of his endeavors—the Wapiti Inn—was being erected about 30 miles west of Cody on the same route. These establishments formed part of Buffalo Bill’s ambitious plan to develop his namesake town with a trio of hotels strategically placed between Cody and Yellowstone's East Entrance. With a rail line connecting Cody to Toluca, Montana, travelers could enjoy an overnight stay at the Irma Hotel in Cody before embarking on a half-day wagon ride to Wapiti Inn and finally arriving at Pahaska Tepee after a full day’s journey. The grand opening of Pahaska Tepee was celebrated with an announcement in the local newspaper on July 5, 1904. Later that year, Buffalo Bill led a prominent hunting party on an adventurous ten-day hunt from his new lodge. Construction reached completion in 1905 when the lodge began welcoming guests. The name Pahaska Tepee is said to have been suggested by Iron Tail—a Lakota friend of Buffalo Bill—translates to Long Hair's Lodge, combining “pahinhonska” (Buffalo Bill’s Lakota name meaning long hair) with “tepee” (Lakota for lodge). Initially intended as Buffalo Bill’s autumn hunting lodge where he could entertain his illustrious friends from around the world, Pahaska Tepee primarily functioned as a summer hotel. Sadly, Buffalo Bill only visited Pahaska Tepee six times during his lifetime, and he was notably absent from some of the famed hunts, like Prince Albert I of Monaco's visit in 1913, when he played host rather than participating. Financially successful yet slow to reach profitability like many of his ventures, Pahaska changed hands multiple times following Buffalo Bill's death in 1917. In 1926, Alberta Wilkinson acquired it; she and her son Willard added a log store in 1929 and transformed the dining room into a museum by 1939-1940. Henry H.R. Coe and Peg Coe purchased it in 1946, expanding winter activities like skiing while extensively remodeling the property. It is still owned by the Coe family and managed by Robert Coe II. Pahaska Tepee is a vibrant, full-service resort catering to summer visitors while morphing into a ski and snowmobile haven during winter. Enriched with more structures beyond its original hunting lodge roots established by Buffalo Bill himself, it remains cherished by locals and tourists alike for its historical significance. A notable homage occurred in 1993 when Prince Albert II of Monaco visited Pahaska Tepee to honor his ancestor's memorable hunt there eight decades prior. Pahaska Tepee was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1973. The Old Lodge is open for tours from Memorial Day through Labor Day. 
Inside Buffalo Bill Cody’s Pahaska Tepee.
Know Before You Go
Be sure to check out my other Beyond Yellowstone blog post!
Beyond Yellowstone: A Guide to the Beartooth Highway All-American Road
For more information about Cody, Wyoming, and the surrounding area, check out:
Not every image makes it into my blog. If you enjoyed the photos in this article, please check out my Wyoming Collection for more pictures of this beautiful state, or visit my Gallery with over 3000 images of locations around the United States.
"Wapiti Valley - Buffalo Bill Cody Scenic Byway" framed art print shown with
Frame: SLW5 Top Mat: Indigo Bottom Mat: White
Fine Art Prints are available for order as print only, framed art, canvas art, metal art, acrylic art, and wood art prints in various sizes. Home Decor and Gift Ideas include shower curtains, throw pillows, towels, totes, phone cases, t-shirts, puzzles, blankets and more—Worldwide Shipping with a 30-day money-back guarantee.
About the Photographer
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AuthorI am the 8th photographer in 4 generations of my family. Back in 2006, my husband accepted a job traveling, and I jumped at the chance to go with him. Categories
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November 2024
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