The Painted Churches of the Big Island

St. Benedict Painted Church

I am always interested in unique and interesting architecture. The Painted Churches on the Big Island of Hawaii certainly fall into that category. ​If you are an architecture or art lover or just like to visit churches, I would consider them must-sees.  Just be aware that these painted churches don't reveal their secrets on the exterior. You must go inside to discover their beauty! 

I have a funny story about that!  On one of our visits to St. Benedict's, my husband was out in their fantastic garden, mostly trying hard to stay out of my way. He was enjoying the quiet and the birds when a car hurriedly wheeled into the parking lot. This guy jumped out of the car and loudly proclaimed, "I'm not sure why they call this the Painted Church. It's just white!" Before my husband could tell him to go inside, he was back in his car and had sped away.

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St. Benedict Catholic Church, also known as the Painted Church, dates back to when Catholicism first came to South Kona in 1842. At that time, the church was sitting on the shore of Honaunau. However, by the mid-1880s, most Hawaiians had moved up the slopes of Mauna Loa for cooler temps and more fertile land. 

In 1899, when Father John Berchmans Velghe, a Sacred Hearts Belgium priest, arrived, he followed the residents up the volcano. Dismantling the church, he moved it to its present location and repaired it to look new.

​In 1902, the church was consecrated and named in honor of Saint Benedict.

St. Benedict Catholic Church - Interior

Father Velghe, a self-taught artist, did all the painting himself using ordinary house paint! Inspired by the Gothic Cathedral of Burgos in Spain, He painted the area around the altar to replicate Burgos Cathedral. ​

At the time, the pointed arch vaulted ceiling was considered an outstanding architectural achievement. Father Velghe painted the sky and palm fronds on the ceiling to give the church a distinct tropical Hawaiian flair, with the vaulted ceiling's six supporting octagonal columns,​ each painted to resemble marble. On the columns, painted white ribbons bear one of the mottos of St. Benedict’s medal.

Above each window is a small panel containing a cruciform rosette, supported on each side by a twisted five-fingered shape derived from the fan-ribbed groins once again reminiscent of Burgos Cathedral.

Three large ornate murals, reflecting scenes from the Bible and religious life, are on the walls on either side of the church.

Sadly, Father Velghe’s health deteriorated, and in 1904, he returned to Belgium, leaving the painting at the back of the church unfinished.

​The church is still active; check their website for mass times. The church is available for public viewing on Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 9:30 to 3:30

St. Benedict Painted Church is listed on the Hawaii State Register of Historic Places and the National Register of Historic Places.

St. Benedict Catholic Church is at 84-5140 Painted Church Road, Captain Cook, Hawaii.

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Star of the Sea Church

​Star of the Sea Church, also known as the Kalapana Painted Church, was built in 1928 by a Belgian Catholic priest, Father Evarist Matthias Gielen, as a mission of Sacred Heart Church in Pahoa, about 10 miles away.  

Constructed out of reclaimed lumber from older dilapidated churches, this tiny pale green church is relatively plain outside. In contrast, its interior is completely covered with beautiful, vibrant murals.

Father Gielen is responsible for all the detailed paintings on the domed ceiling. He painted those at night by the light of an oil lantern.

​​Two other artists are responsible for the rest of the murals:

Star of the Sea Church - Interior

In 1941, George Heidler from Athens, Georgia, painted the wooden panels (columns and drapery swags) on both sides of the church and the altar area. These paintings tell the story of the life of Father Damien De Veuster, who, from 1864 to 1873, did missionary work in Kalapana.

You may not know him by his full name. Father Damien is better known for overseeing the leprosy colony on the island of Molokai. After 16 years on Molokai, Father Damien contracted leprosy and died from the disease in 1889.

The Catholic Church canonized him in 2009 as Saint Damien of Molokai, the patron saint of lepers and outcasts.

Exiting Star of the Sea Church

In 1949, Father Joseph Avery, another church priest, commissioned the final artist, George Lorch, from Hilo, to do a series of frescos inside the existing panels. These frescoes depict traditional beliefs and teachings of the Catholic Church and are more instructional. They feature the Seven Sacraments, the Holy Virgin Mary, the Saints, and the Angels. George Lorch also painted the trompe l’oeil painting behind the altar.

Ka Rosario is one of George Lorch's paintings. It teaches how to pray the rosary, with instructions and prayers written in Hawaiian. 

Ka Rosario

The Star of the Sea Church has had a fascinating history. Originally built on the shoreline of Kaimu Black Sand Beach, about 25 yards from the ocean, it was moved in 1990 to save it from advancing lava flow. Unfortunately, it ended up abandoned along the side of the road and sat on wooden blocks for six years until a permanent location could be found. During that time, the paintings suffered damage from weather and termites.

It finally found its new home in 1996, but attempts to repair the church were too costly. In 1997, it was finally placed on the National Register of Historic Places ​to save it. Although this church is no longer active, it is open to the public from 9 to 4 daily. 

​Star of the Sea Church is at 12-4815 Pahoa Kalapana Rd, Pahoa, also known as Highway 130. It is between mile markers 19 and 20.

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There is a third painted church on the Big Island. Unfortunately, I only discovered it after I  returned to the mainland.  

St. Theresa Church is at ​181355 Volcano Highway, Mountain View.

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About the Photographer

Susan Rissi Tregoning is the 8th photographer in the past 4 generations of professional photographers in her family. After a long career as an art buyer and interior designer, she put her career on hold in 2006 to travel with her husband and his job. In the process, she found her “roots” again,  developing a photography obsession far beyond casual snapshots that  evolved into a desire to capture each and every location and object as “art”. By meshing her two loves, photography and design, she has come full circle. Only now, she is creating art instead of just purchasing it. 

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Visit the Hawaii Collection to see more images from the Hawaiian islands.

See an image you like? You can purchase Susan's work in the Gallery.  
All images in her collection are available as wall art, fine art prints, home decor, gift items, and apparel.

"Wawaloli Beach Sunset" on Metal Art

Bring your artwork to life with the stylish lines and added depth of a metal print. Your image gets printed directly onto a sheet of 1/16" thick aluminum. The aluminum sheet is offset from the wall by a 3/4" thick wooden frame which is attached to the back. The high gloss of the aluminum sheet complements the rich colors of any image to produce stunning results.

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