Gold was discovered in the Sweetwater Creek in 1842, this initial finding, probably by miners en route to California along the Emigrant Trails, was a precursor to a more significant event. It wasn't until 1867 that soldiers from Fort Bridger discovered gold and filed the first claim in the Dakota Territory. This event led to the birth of South Pass City. When these soldiers returned to Fort Bridger that autumn, the news triggered a gold rush. The effect was swift and dramatic: South Pass City grew overnight.
Unlike many boomtowns that succumbed to time and neglect, South Pass City is a rare survivor, remarkably well-preserved. It is a gateway to an extraordinary past that continues to resonate today. What truly distinguishes South Pass City is its historic charm, the convergence of hard work, luck, and foresight that has safeguarded its legacy, making it a beacon of American frontier history. The tale of South Pass City illuminates the indomitable spirit of those who dared to dream in the unforgiving Wyoming frontier. The early boom years were a test of endurance, where settlers, with their unwavering determination, laid a foundation for economic stability that outlasted the fleeting gold rush fever. While many ghost towns faded when the gold declined, South Pass City clung to its historical roots, becoming a precious gem of American history. Today, South Pass City, a State Historic site, is one of Wyoming's most renowned ghost towns and the most authentic old settlements in the American West, a testament to the settlers' perseverance.
The historic Oregon, California, and Mormon trails crossed the South Pass, just eight miles from what would later become Wyoming's sole significant gold-producing region. The first primary wave of emigration through this pass occurred in 1843, 24 years before gold was discovered at South Pass City. Over 1,000 individuals endured the grueling 2,000-mile journey that lasted six months during this initial migration.
The Carissa Saloon, a well-preserved remnant of the Old West, was one of the many establishments that catered to miners and settlers. It offered a place to drink, socialize, and occasionally engage in more rowdy entertainment.
Around 1890, James Smith built the Carissa Saloon, naming it after the region's most profitable gold mine. The modest establishment provided essential furniture and drinks to its patrons. During the 1940s, John Shorty Nichols managed the saloon. Renowned for his storytelling, Nichols attracted a steady stream of local customers to the venue.
Before the development of South Pass City, early prospectors in the area had to station lookouts to watch for Native Americans. The Arapaho, Cheyenne, and Sioux tribes predominantly occupied the remote region and staunchly protected their land from outsiders. It wasn't until 1866 when small groups of frontier military personnel were strategically stationed in the South Pass area to safeguard telegraph lines, Pony Express stations, and the emigrant trails, that there was a significant influx of miners. Despite the military presence, frequent and intense attacks by Native Americans continued. Finally, Fort Stambaugh was established about eight miles north of the Sweetwater River between Atlantic City and the Oregon-California Trail in June 1870 as a permanent military post for U.S. troops to safeguard settlers and miners.
Smith-Sherlock Company Store - For almost a century, the Smith-Sherlock Company Store reigned supreme as the leading mercantile establishment in South Pass City.
Janet Sherlock arrived in the town with her husband Richard in 1868, part of the initial wave of gold-seekers. The couple established a bathhouse and mined the surrounding hills. After Richard died in 1873, Janet took control of a local hotel lease and stagecoach operations; she also acquired saloons and mining claims, eventually becoming postmistress—a role that would equate to a $20,000 salary today. In 1875, she married James Smith, who owned another mercantile business. Together, they expanded their ventures further. Janet and James planned to build this store using logs salvaged from the abandoned 1870 Episcopal church nearby. However, after James passed away unexpectedly, Janet quickly settled his estate and proceeded with their plans. She relocated the old church structure and inaugurated the Smith-Sherlock Company Store in August 1896. Janet managed their growing enterprises until she died in 1923 when her son Peter took over. Despite losing sight in a mining accident during his twenties, Peter continued to expand the family's business interests by adding more properties, mines, and ranches. The store remained central to South Pass City's commerce until Peter's death in 1948 led to its sale. One of South Pass City's treasures is the original cash register from the Smith-Sherlock Company Store, purchased in 1904. Now fully restored, it once again rings out with each transaction!
as miners and investors faced the harsh realities of extracting profitable gold from the Sweetwater Mines. This dramatic shift from hopeful anticipation to harsh reality forms an intriguing chapter in South Pass City's history. However, some individuals, driven by faith and optimism, remained optimistic about the mines' future despite adversity. Their unwavering belief paid off as periods of national economic prosperity occasionally revived dormant mining properties.
South Pass Hotel and Restaurant—The South Pass Hotel opened in 1868. It stood out among the several hotels in South Pass City. In 1873, Janet Sherlock, a widowed mother of five, took the reins of this establishment. Not only did she manage the hotel, but she also became the postmistress, incorporating a post office into the hotel. The Sherlock family lived on the first floor, with the guest rooms upstairs.
After she remarried, Janet Sherlock-Smith built the restaurant addition in 1899. The front room of the addition became the hotel lobby, while the restaurant's dining room and kitchen occupied the rear of the building.
By 1868, South Pass City had grown to include more than 250 structures, a population exceeding 1,000, and numerous mining claims. This settlement was the first mining camp established in the Sweetwater Mining District. It was soon followed by two others, Atlantic City and Miners Delight.
The atmosphere in South Pass City was electric. Its half-mile-long main street was lined with various establishments, including hotels, restaurants, general stores, and two newspapers. The town also featured medical professionals, a bowling alley, and numerous saloons that were a staple in bustling mining camps. There was a church, too, but as with most mining towns, there were more sinners than saints.
A beautiful old wooden wagon in the hills above South Pass City, surrounded by sagebrush, it sits as a silent testament to the bygone era of pioneers and prospectors who once traversed these lands. The weathered wood, bleached by years of sun and rain, exudes rustic charm while telling stories of countless journeys over rough terrain.
The mining district experienced rapid growth, eventually housing up to 3,000 people—miners seeking investors and newspapers encouraging more settlers, often overstating the region's gold reserves. Investors and miners faced the harsh realities of mining, dealing with its unpredictable nature. The initial bust after the gold rush tested their endurance and adaptability. Despite these challenges, optimism sometimes revived old mines. It boosted the mining economy, showing the foresight and resilience of its community. The town's gold mill still symbolizes perseverance, and visitors can almost hear the echoes of past dreams. Preservation efforts and historical interest have made South Pass City an active guardian of Western heritage. It is a testament to the pioneers who sought their fortunes in harsh conditions, leaving behind a legacy that modern adventurers explore.
South Pass School - A log one-room schoolhouse perched on a hill in the heart of South Pass City. The majestic Wind River Range surrounds it, adding to its picturesque charm.
The South Pass School, originally constructed near the present parking lot in 1911, had to be relocated due to the wet ground and frequent flooding. This historical event is a testament to the resilience of the community. Classes continued in the log building until 1947. A former student, William Carr, recalled a male teacher who was as quick to take up a willow switch as he was to nap and smoke his pipe after lunch. One day, during the teacher’s nap, Carr slipped gunpowder into the pipe. The pipe exploded when lit, and the switch was put to work overtime, slashing at any student within reach. This anecdote gives us a glimpse into the daily life of students at the South Pass School, where pranks and discipline were part of the routine.
South Pass City was so important as a community that while it was still part of the Dakota Territory, it was named the Carter County seat. In 1869, Carter County transitioned to the Wyoming Territory. While the county was renamed Sweetwater, South Pass City continued to serve as the county seat until 1873. Subsequently, in 1884, Sweetwater County became incorporated into Fremont County.
However, the rapid growth of South Pass City was short-lived. Merely two years after its founding, the town began to experience a downturn. In early 1869, it hit a low point but saw a brief revival when external investments flowed in. Nevertheless, the resurgence was fleeting as the high costs and difficulties of extracting gold drove many miners away. By 1872, only a few hundred residents remained in the town.
South Pass City significantly influenced American history at the peak of its prominence. William Bright, a local saloon and mine proprietor, played a pivotal role by serving in Wyoming's inaugural Territorial Legislature. His introduction of the pioneering women's suffrage bill, which proposed granting women the right to vote in all elections, was successfully passed in December 1869, making Wyoming the first state to grant women the right to vote. It was a momentous event in American history; it would be 50 more years before women earned that right throughout the United States!
In a remarkable testament to the rapid progress of women's rights, Justice R. S. Barr resigned in protest of the Wyoming Territory's passage of the women's suffrage amendment just three months later, in February 1870. This marked another significant moment in history when South Pass City commissioners appointed Esther Hobart Morris to fill the position. Mrs. Morris, became the nation's first female public officeholder as South Pass City's Justice of the Peace. Her tenure, though brief at eight months, saw her preside over 27 cases.
The Wolverine Mine - A brief horizontal passage known as an adit, was excavated in the quest for profitable ore. Despite its efforts, it never yielded enough gold and was quickly deserted. This South Pass City display provides a secure opportunity to venture into a short section of the mine tunnel and immerse yourself in the typical dark and confined environment of a gold mine. It is important to note that no other nearby mines are deemed safe for entry.
South Pass City experienced several brief mining revivals in the following decades before the mines closed again. Hopeful inhabitants remained in the dwindling town, making a living through ranching, timber work, and small-scale industries. By 1949, the final pioneer families had left South Pass City, leaving its structures to decay. South Pass City became a ghost town.
South Pass City was operated as a privately managed tourist spot for twenty years afterward, but maintaining the buildings proved challenging.
Sweetwater County Jail - Constructed in 1870 for $2000, Wyoming's oldest jail housed prisoners in these small, dark, and unheated cells until 1875. This facility was built to address the demands of the bustling boomtown. South Pass City functioned as the administrative center of Sweetwater County until 1873 when county offices were relocated to Green River. Although its use became sporadic afterward, the jail found new life in the 1880s when schoolmaster Dr. Walter Lovejoy converted its front room into a classroom. The walls still bear remnants of pink paint and a handwritten alphabet above the door. In subsequent years, the building stored hay and other items.
In 1966, Wyoming acquired the ghost town and began preserving its rich history. This restoration was a joint effort by various state agencies and private groups, resulting in an accurate town reconstruction. The site features 23 original buildings and approximately 30,000 artifacts, most authentic to the original settlement. While only about six people reside there permanently, the town becomes lively during summer when thousands of tourists visit to experience this genuine slice of the American West.
E.A. Slack Cabin - The original building on this property was the cabin of Edward Archibald Slack, son of Ester Hobart Morris. Slack was the publisher of the South Pass News until his office was destroyed by fire in 1871. Remarkably, his original Gordon Hand Press survived and is now exhibited in a reconstructed version of his office in the back room.
The front room pays tribute to his mother, Esther Morris, who holds the distinction of being the first female Justice of the Peace, and William Bright, a legislator from South Pass City who introduced and advocated for suffrage legislation in the Territorial Legislature. This legislation led to Wyoming becoming the first state to grant women the right to vote.
Among the most captivating structures are the Carissa Saloon from 1890, the Smith-Sherlock Co. Store built in 1896, the South Pass Hotel & Restaurant, and the Sweetwater County Jail. These buildings offer a glimpse into the past and a testament to the town's rich history. For those interested in mining equipment history, notable sites include the Moses Sturman Stamp Mill, the Wolverine Mine Adit, and remnants of brick kilns. Just to the north of town lies the historic Carissa Mine and Mill, acquired by the State of Wyoming in 2003. South of town on a hill is an old cemetery with only four marked graves for children; many families relocated their relatives' remains after South Pass City declined in population. These unique features and attractions make South Pass City a must-visit for anyone interested in American West history and ghost towns.
Carissa Mine & Mill - Since 1867, the Carissa Mine has stood as a symbol of countless men's dreams, becoming the largest gold mine in the Sweetwater Mining District. Although it never reached its initial lofty goals, it remains a significant historical site as one of the best-preserved mining operations globally.
Other Area Historic Sites
Other nearby historic sites include the Atlantic City, and Miners Delight ghost towns, and the Oregon Trail.
The Willie's Handcart Historic Site is thirteen miles southeast of South Pass City. It is the location of one of the most tragic incidents along the Mormon Trail. Here, early winter storms and harsh temperatures severely impacted the exhausted and starving members of the Willie Handcart Company as they became trapped by snow at Rock Creek. In one devastating night, thirteen members perished and are interred here in a mass grave. Of the original 404 migrants who embarked on this journey, only 327 made it to Salt Lake City on November 9, 1856, with their rescuers. To visit the Willie's Handcart Historic Site follow the signage to Rock Creek. These nearby sites offer additional opportunities to explore the history of the American West. Visitors to South Pass City are encouraged to visit these attractions to better understand the region's history. Know Before You Go
Included with the price of admission, limited tours are offered of the Carissa Mine at 2pm on Thursday - Sunday. It is strongly suggest that reservations be made on their website in advance. Otherwise, inquire about tour availability at the Dance Hall.
Getting There
South Pass City welcomes visitors annually from late May to the middle of October. The site is open seven days a week from 10 to 6. Check the South Pass City website for exact dates and any changes to the operating hours.
Although located on dirt roads South Pass City is easily accessible by car, and ample parking is available for visitors.
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AuthorI am the 8th photographer in 4 generations of my family. Back in 2006, my husband accepted a job traveling, and I jumped at the chance to go with him. Categories
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